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The Last 20% of a Battery Takes About as Long as the First 60%

A rated charger power is a peak, not an average, and charging losses mean you pay for energy the battery never receives.

Time

Into the battery

Off the meter

what you pay for

Cost

 

Where the time goes

The same charge on every connection

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How the calculation works

A 150 kW charger, actual power against state of charge rated 150 kW 80–100% 0% 40% 80% 100% 20–80% takes about 20 minutes. 80–100% takes about as long again for a third of the energy.

How to Use This Tool

Set the battery size, the state of charge you are starting and finishing at, and the charger. The answer separates energy that reaches the battery from energy you pay for, because they are not the same.

Charging losses

Not everything the meter records ends up in the pack. The rest becomes heat in the cable, the on-board charger, the battery itself, and the thermal management running while it all happens.

  • Slow AC — typically 10–15% lost. A trickle charge from a domestic socket is the worst case, because the fixed overhead of keeping the car awake is spread over a small trickle of energy.
  • Wallbox AC — around 10%.
  • DC rapid — 5–8%, since the on-board charger is bypassed.

Putting 36 kWh into a 60 kWh pack at 90% efficiency draws 40.0 kWh from the meter. At 0.30 per kWh that is 12.00 rather than 10.80 — and the difference is invisible unless you compare the car's display with your electricity bill.

The rated power is a peak

A "150 kW" charger is rated at what it can deliver, not what your car will accept. The actual rate is whichever of these is lowest at that moment: the charger, the car's maximum DC rate, the cable, and what the battery management system is currently allowing.

That last one changes constantly. The pack accepts high current when it is fairly empty and reduces it as it fills, steeply above around 80%, to protect cell life. It also refuses full power when cold, which is why cars precondition the battery when a rapid charger is set as a destination.

So 20–80% on a 150 kW charger calculates to 15.3 minutes at full rate and takes rather longer in practice; 80–100% calculates to 5.1 minutes and typically takes closer to 20.

Why long-distance stops end at 80% 20 → 80% 36 kWh in ~20 min 80 → 100% 12 kWh in ~20 min Same time, a third of the energy. Two stops to 80% beat one to 100% on any journey long enough to need two stops anyway.
The taper is battery chemistry, not a fault, and it is why the 80% convention exists.

Usable capacity, not total

Manufacturers quote two numbers. Total capacity includes a buffer the car will never let you use, kept back to protect the cells at both ends. Usable capacity is what appears on the range display between 0% and 100%.

Use the usable figure here, because 20% on the dashboard means 20% of usable. Mixing them overstates both the time and the cost by whatever the buffer happens to be, which can be several kWh.

Comparing with petrol

The fair comparison is cost per distance rather than cost per unit of energy. A car using 18 kWh per 100 km at 0.30 per kWh costs 5.40 per 100 km before charging losses, and about 6.00 after them.

Two things distort this in both directions. Home charging on an off-peak tariff can be a small fraction of public rapid-charging prices, so the same car has wildly different running costs depending on where it is plugged in. And real consumption is worse than the official figure in cold weather, at motorway speed, and with the heating on — often by 30% or more, which affects the calculation more than the electricity price does.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to charge an electric car?
Energy needed divided by the actual charging power, plus losses. Putting 36 kWh into a 60 kWh battery from 20% to 80% takes about 5 hours 24 minutes on a 7.4 kW wallbox, or roughly 20 minutes on a 150 kW DC charger once tapering is allowed for.
Why does charging slow down above 80%?
The battery management system reduces current as the pack fills, to protect cell life. The effect is steep above about 80%, which is why the last fifth of the battery can take as long as the first three fifths and why long-distance stops usually end there.
How much energy is lost when charging an EV?
Typically 10–15% on slow AC, around 10% on a wallbox, and 5–8% on DC rapid charging where the on-board charger is bypassed. The loss becomes heat, and you pay for it because the meter measures what goes in, not what reaches the battery.
Should I charge to 100%?
For a long journey with more stops ahead, usually not — the last 20% takes about as long as the first 60%. Charge to 100% before a trip that needs the full range, and when charging slowly at home overnight where the time does not matter.
Should I use total or usable battery capacity?
Usable. Manufacturers keep a buffer at both ends that the car will never let you access, and the percentage on your dashboard refers to the usable figure. Using the total number overstates both the time and the cost.
How does EV charging cost compare with petrol?
Compare cost per 100 km rather than per unit of energy. A car using 18 kWh per 100 km at 0.30 per kWh costs about 6.00 per 100 km including losses. The bigger variable is where you charge — off-peak home electricity can be a small fraction of public rapid-charging prices.

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