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Your Fridge Is Not Drawing Its Nameplate Watts for Twenty-Four Hours

A thermostat means the compressor runs about a third of the time, so the usual watts-times-hours sum overstates the cost by roughly three times.

Per day

 

Per month

 

Per year

 

Standby share

 

Duty cycle against the naive sum

What the same appliance costs at other tariffs

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How the calculation works

A 150 W fridge over one month, two methods Watts x hours 108.0 kWh — $18.36 x 35% duty cycle 37.8 kWh $6.43 Bars are 4 px per kWh. The compressor is off about two thirds of the time. This is why a fridge costs about $77 a year, not the $220 the simple sum suggests.

How to Use This Tool

Pick an appliance for sensible defaults, then correct the watts from your own label. The duty cycle is the input that most calculators leave out entirely.

Duty cycle: the reason the simple sum is wrong

Anything with a thermostat cycles. A fridge compressor runs, reaches temperature, stops, and starts again when the cabinet warms. Over a day it might be running 30 to 40 per cent of the time. The nameplate watts are what it draws while running, not an average.

Appliances without a thermostat — a kettle, a TV, a router, an LED lamp — draw close to their rating the whole time they are on, so their duty cycle is effectively 100 per cent. For those the naive sum is right, which is part of why the mistake survives.

naive   150 W x 24 h x 30 d / 1000  = 108.0 kWh -> $18.36
real    108.0 x 35% duty cycle      =  37.8 kWh -> $6.43

annual  1.26 kWh/day x 365          = 459.9 kWh -> $78.18

a 2 W standby, if it were ever off  =  17.5 kWh -> $2.98 a year
A 150 W fridge freezer at $0.17 per kWh

Where to find the real numbers

Three sources, in order of reliability. The energy label gives an annual kWh figure measured under a standard test, which is the best single number available. The nameplate gives running watts. A plug-in energy monitor left for a week gives your actual duty cycle in your kitchen, which is better than any table.

If the label lists both starting and running watts for a motor, use the running figure. Starting watts can be three times higher but only last a second or two, so they matter for sizing a generator rather than for a bill.

Standby is small per device and not small per house

Two watts of standby is 17.5 kWh a year. On its own, about three dollars. The point is that standby runs 8,760 hours a year with no exceptions, so twenty devices at 2 W is 350 kWh — comparable to running the fridge for nine months.

Tariffs are not one number

Many bills have a fixed daily charge, tiered rates above a threshold, and time-of-use pricing. This calculator uses a single marginal rate, which is the right basis for the question "what does this appliance add to my bill". If you are on a time-of-use tariff, put in the rate for the period the appliance actually runs in.

What this is not

This estimates energy cost, not whether replacing an appliance pays for itself. That needs the new unit's annual kWh, the purchase price and the remaining life of the old one.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to run a fridge?
A 150 W fridge at a 35 per cent duty cycle uses about 37.8 kWh a month, or $6.43 at $0.17 per kWh, which is roughly $77 a year. Multiplying watts by 24 hours would suggest $220, because it assumes the compressor never stops.
What is a duty cycle?
The fraction of the time an appliance is actually drawing power. A thermostatically controlled device cycles on and off, so a fridge plugged in for 24 hours may only run for eight. Devices without a thermostat have a duty cycle of 100 per cent while switched on.
How do I convert watts to kWh?
Multiply watts by hours and divide by 1,000. A 150 W device for 24 hours is 3.6 kWh. Multiply by your price per kWh for the cost, and by the duty cycle if the appliance cycles.
Does standby power actually matter?
Per device, barely: 2 W costs about three dollars a year. Across a whole house it adds up, because standby runs all 8,760 hours. Twenty devices at 2 W is 350 kWh a year, which is a real amount on a bill.
Should I use starting watts or running watts?
Running watts for cost. Starting watts, sometimes three times higher, only last a second or two and barely register on a bill, but they are the figure that matters when sizing a generator or an extension lead.
Why is my bill higher than this calculator says?
Most bills include a fixed daily charge, and many use tiered or time-of-use rates. This tool answers what one appliance adds at a single marginal rate, which will be lower than dividing your whole bill by your whole consumption.

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